Fri May 30, 2014 16:34
Converting/Transcoding/Encoding High quality Low bitrate Videos in Handbrake
Converting/Transcoding/Encoding High quality Low bitrate Videos in Handbrake for any device
Encoding in H264 takes a lot of time. I’ll assume this guy was using one of those crappresets (I automatically assume that almost all presets are crap) in AutoGK, and even that predicted 14hrs for *just 4 hours of film.
1. If you don’t have a fast processor, it’s gonna take a while.
2. When you have the encoder running in the background, you cannot play games. You’re limited to small tasks such as waiting for the mouse to move from 1230, 230 to 934, 317 (well, not unless you’ve got lots of other shit open), and maybe checking your email. You can’t edit videos, and you can’t play old games even though they’ve got lesser system requirements since when all the threads of your hyper threaded quad core 3.6ghz CPU are used simultaneously, the old single threaded game will only be able to use one thread at a speed and efficiency of around 200-300 Mhz (3.6/4/2=400)
3. You cannot reboot
4. Everything is slow
5. Even if you have the newest fastest consumer processor, you will still be unable to fully utilize your computer for at least a day if you wanna do a single threaded 1080p encode of a 2 hour film, and if you make a mistake, you start over.
Bottom line is, why do it yourself if someone with the time and equipment has done it for you? Therefore I discourage anyone who actually needs their computer every day from doing video encoding. It’s messy and not for the impatient .
Continue reading if you still think you’re up to the task.
1. Drag your film onto the program or select Source-> Video file
2. Go to preset pack for handbrake 0.98 , and select options->import from the bottom right corner of the program. Locate the downloaded file from the window and open it.
3. Locate “Placebo” in the preset list and double click
4. If you wanna downsize the video, change the width in the appropriate box (green circle) The “display size” might show weird numbers, but it is most beneficial to keep it that way, as leaving the resolution non-anamorphic will result in worse compression. Don’t worry, your video will still be displayed in the resolution it should be.
Check the red circle’s area.
If you see that there are numbers other than zero in the listboxes but your video doesn’t need to be cropped, select “custom” and edit all values to zero. This function automatically removes “black bars”, but is buggy in some cases.
If your video is in an incorrect aspect ratio and you want to correct it using a custom resolution, select Anamorphic and choose none. Now you can set custom values to make it 4:3, 16:9, etc.
If you want to keep your original resolution, select this too.
5. Now you can flip to the filters tab and apply some simple filters. Note that if denoise is not set to “Medium”, set it to “Medium”. Grayscale encoding might help compression by 0.5%, but the end result is, you guessed it- grayscale.
Note: If you’re producing videos, turn off denoise.
6. Flip to the video tab. Make sure the codec is set to H.264. Make sure the FPS is same as source, and you can decide whether you want variable or constant framerates. VFR helps compression a bit, and its effects aren’t that obvious as the resulting framerate wouldn’t be hugely affected- you probably wouldn’t even notice it were there.However, constant frame rate is preferable for high motion videos- better safe than sorry, right?
7. The default RF value is set as 30, good for 1080p (1920*xxxx) and 720p (1280*xxx) all the way to DVD quality (720*xxx). For 480p, use a RF of 25. For 240p, use a RF of 23.
If you are producing, use RF15 (or23) for full HD, RF14 (or20) for 720p, RF12 (or 18) for DVD and 480p, and RF 10(or17) for 240p.
*OR values are for if you really value your HDD space that much, then fine.
If you insist on a specific file size, calculate the bit rate (including the audio of 96kbps by default), select Avg Bitrate, enter value, select 2-Pass Encoding and leave turbo first pass alone. This is only useful if you’re encoding for cd or DVD.
I personally use the xvid encoder that comes with klite codec pack to calculate bit rate, but I’m sure much better solutions are availabe.
8. Switch to the audio tab. If the box is empty and your video is supposed to have audio, click “add track”. If your video contains multiple audio tracks and you want to add a specific one,
click on the listbox beneath “add track”, and select from the list. You can add multiple audio streams, however if you do, please change the container from MP4 to MKV, as the MP4 container does not support multiple audio streams.
If a track is labeled as o 0 (as shown in picture below), you have to remove it and add it again. To remove audio tracks first
click on a track, and then press “remove
Make sure the audio codec is faac, mixdown stereo, samplerate auto and bitrate @96.
If you really hate faac that much, you could always mux in yournero/itunes encoded aac stream later.
If you’re a producer for (especially music videos), select “360” for the audio bitrate.
9. Switch to subtitles tab. If your video contains subs, now is the time to add them. I recommend that you add all of them since subs are so damned small anyways, however if you add subs you have to set the container as mkv (matroska)- mp4 does not support built in text subs. You add subs the same way you add audio streams, and here you get to change several properties of the subs as well.
update: If you know your video contains special subtitles (such as the Jabba the Hutt translation in Star Wars) and you want to preserve it in your encode but it isn’t listed in the list of subtitles, add “Foreign Audio Search” to the list of subtitle tracks.
10. Switch to the advanced tab.
u are now at the very last stage. This is where you set the compatibility of your video if you want it to work with a specific device.
Check the spec sheets of your target device for things on this list you might want to disable to meet various profiles.
If the preset don’t import properly, copy and paste this into the box at the bottom of the window:
Note: disable (ie. delete) threads=1 if you’re only encoding 1 video
These settings basically emulate the “placebo” preset in x264:
This setting pushes h264 to its very limit. It’s a general purpose set of options that ensure maximum compression happens.
For more info on the settings (and this is why I like Handbrake so much), hover your mouse on each of the options and a description will appear explaining it.
*edit: add “threads=1? to the options. this is a life saver in both batch processing videos and in cases where you might want to be able to utilize the rest of your cores/threads for other uses if on multicore computers.
However if you only plan on encoding one film in the near future, might wanna disable threads=1 as it is seriously slow on multicore and/or hyperthreaded systems and is only useful for batch processing.
If you are encoding for production,
you might want to completely disable Psychovisual Rate Distortion and Psychovisual Trellis, as well as Deblocking. These can cause artifacts. Or blurring.
11. Now you’re all set.
Enjoy and happy encoding........